Bearded Dragon Care

New Dragon Care:

When you first bring home your Bearded Dragon, like most new pets, he will be stressed from the environmental changes. Often they will eat very little during this stress period and should not be handled more than necessary until they are eating normal again. During the first 3 days that stress should be minimized by not handling your new pet except when necessary. The stress can also cause physiological changes in their digestive tract these include diarrhea and parasites. Healthy Bearded Dragons maintain a balance of organisms (some referred to as parasites when present in large quantities) in their digestive tract, these organisms benefit the Dragons when present in the proper balance but can cause problems if the balance is thrown off by stress, because of this newly purchased dragons will almost always test positive for “parasites”. To help your new dragon get these microorganisms back in balance about two weeks after purchase, about the time your dragon is well settled in and adjusted to its new surroundings and routine including handling, you should either have him tested for parasites and use a prescription dewormer if needed followed by a round of probiotics or use a safe gentle natural dewormer and again follow it with a round of probiotics. Since it is actually very dangerous to kill off too many of these organisms treatment should take a light gentle approach if you use a chemical (over the counter or prescription) dewormer ask about possible dangers and side effects. One good option is to sprinkle a small amount of Human Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth on their greens once every 4 days or so for about 3 weeks, then start a round of probiotics. It is essential to give probiotics after any parasite treatment to help replenish beneficial microorganisms, there are several made specifically for reptiles including BenaBac.

Habitat:

Proper size terrarium, with screen top, for size of dragon. 20 gallon for babies, 40 gallon or larger for adults. 55 gallon or larger divided terrarium or two separate appropriately sized terrariums for pairs.

Substrate:

Reptile carpet is the most recommended option, other substrates can lead to fatal digestive blockages (impaction), or leach toxic substances. Avoid sand and other substrates that can cause impaction, avoid paper towels which can leach toxic levels of formaldehyde over time. You need at least two carpets so you can switch them out while cleaning the habitat. Bearded Dragons have also been shown to benefit from a properly set up bioactive habitat, much data is available about that online and there are several facebook pages dedicated to Reptile and Amphibian Bioactive Setups.

Heat:

A day basking/heat light, and proper size lamp, of proper wattage to make the basking area (one end about half way up) 100-115°F with the opposite end 75-85°F. Usually 60-75 watt for a 20 gallon terrarium or 75-120 for a 40+ gallon will create the proper temperature. Avoid household bulbs they do not produce proper heat or light spectrum. Avoid household lamps which can not handle the heat produced by reptile bulbs. Above tank heat source at night that produces little or no light and keeps the tank above 75°. Usually 40-60 watt for a 20 gallon or 50-75 watt for a 40+ gallon. A ceramic bulb heater can be used since light is not required. Avoid under the tank heaters and heat rocks at all costs as they can produce potentially fatal burns. A night time cooling off period is desirable so generally your night heat will be one bulb size (wattage) lower than your day bulb.

UVB:

A desert 10 UVB light and fixture. This is vital for calcium absorption and is about as important as food itself. This bulb slowly stops producing the correct spectrum of light so must be changed out ever 6-12 months even if it appears to be working fine.

Basking area:

This can be any simple reptile basking area but should not have small spaces that crickets can hide in like cracks, crevices or leaves. Avoid non reptile items that can leach toxic substances. Avoid material from outside which can have poisonous properties or parasite infestations.

Water:

Water Bowl: All water should be dechlorinated. Bearded Dragons get most of their moisture by soaking it in through their skin and licking drops off of their surroundings. To meet their needs they should have a shallow bowl of fresh water available for them to soak in at all times, it should be big enough that they can comfortably crawl in and soak but shallow enough that their head and neck is always above water when they are relaxing. There has been instances that appeared to be drownings, true drownings generally involve either getting stuck in deep water (can't stand on the bottom with head out of water) that it is unable to get out of or something (like a cage mate standing on him) physically holding his head under water. However, an ill lizard is often a dehydrated lizard so will usually soak to rehydrate, often by the time a lizard shows illness they are too far along to make it, it is not at all uncommon for an ill lizard to die while trying to rehydrate leading to the appearance of having drowned. For this reason only a shallow open bowl that is easy to get out of without rims should be provided. Additionally they should be misted 2-3 times a day for babies and once a day for adults to give them the opportunity to lap up droplets and to maintain humidity.
Humidity: Humidity: Proper humidity is essential to prevent dehydration in baby Bearded Dragons. Babies need at least 50% humidity and should be misted 2-3 times a day. Adults do better with a once a day misting and humidity levels below between 40-50%. With proper misting practices respiratory problems are easy to avoid; avoid misting near their face, ill Bearded dragons should not be misted but soaked instead.
Soaking: Again dechlorinated water, warm but not hot to the touch, for about 5-15 minutes at least once a week. This not only rehydrates them but also stimulates sluggish digestive tracks. The frequency can be increased for lizards that are slower growing, refuse vegetables, or seem a little dehydrated in any way. Again it should be shallow enough to allow their head to stay above water when they are completely relaxed.

Calcium:

In addition to the vitamin D their bodies produce naturally from the UVB light they need a calcium supplement. A lot of times Bearded Dragons will refuse food dusted with a calcium powder for that reason I recommend a spray calcium. Calcium gluconate is the most absorbable form of calcium. Calcium should be applied no less than once a week and no more than every other day. Follow directions on the package.

Food:

Bearded Dragons need a varied diet that includes insects as well as plant material. They should have at least one worm option, one insect and bowl of assorted greens and vegetables every day all produce should be organic as most other produce contains toxic levels of pesticides that can not be entirely removed. This list is just a start, there are many great lists online that are more complete and often include nutritional data on each item.

Crickets: Although crickets are considered a low nutrient insect they are an affordable staple when gut loaded and not use as the sole insect. Most suppliers gut load their crickets before selling them, check on their policy, even if they do it won't hurt to further gut load them for a day before giving them to your Dragons. To gut load them put them in a cricket keeper or Tupperware approximately 1 gallon per 50 or larger and provide them with a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables that have not been sprayed with pesticides (organic) for a day or two before feeding. At 6-9 inches small, or 1/2 inch, crickets work well, between 9 and 12 inches medium, or 3/4 inch, are best and over 12 inches should be fed adult or large crickets. Feeding crickets that are too big can cause choking or even death. If crickets that are too small are fed the Dragon will expend as much energy trying to catch them as they get from them. Feed as many as your lizard will eat in a day. Never leave crickets in overnight; even though healthy dragons are generally not harmed by crickets, weak or sick ones run a higher risk and if the dragon were to pass away overnight crickets will eat on the remains, it is simply better to avoid the possibility of bites by only feeding what crickets they will eat in a day.
Roaches: Dubian and other roach species are a nutritious insect option and should be fed regularly. They are easy to raise at home and generally don't have odor, but grow slowly.
Mealworms: sort of the crickets of the worm world these lower nutrient worms are an affordable addition but run a debatable risk of internal damage especially to already unhealthy animals or ones too young for the size offered. Do not feed to babies. Avoid Superworms because of risk on internal damage.
Wax worms: a good supplemental worm but should be limited to no more than once a week do to high fat content.
Calci/Phoenix worms: a good nutritious worm, can be feed daily, an excellent addition to every Dragon's diet that can be fed as early as 4 weeks old.
Greens: a variety of greens offered daily is essential to your Dragon's health. Some Dragons eat very little greens or seem to not eat any at all, try to provide a good selection of choices every day and they will usually eventually come around. Good options for greens include Dandelion greens, Collard greens, Mustard greens, Bok choy, watercress, endive, Kale, Turnip greens, clover, Escarole and Chicory. Iceberg (head) lettuce should be avoided as it lacks nutritional value and can lead to blockages. Spinach and beet greens should also be avoided as calcium binds to them and can lead to a potentially deadly calcium deficiency.
Vegetables: A variety of vegetables can also be offered to your bearded dragon daily. Good options include cactus leaves,squash, green beans, leeks, turnips, parsnips, sweet potato, peas, pumpkin, radishes and carrots. Carrots should only be used as a treat though due to the high amounts of vitamin A.
Fruit: Fruit can be given occasionally as a treat. Acceptable fruit include apple, apricot, bell pepper (red, green or yellow), blackberries, blueberries, cactus pear, cherries, cranberries, cucumber, figs, grapes, grapefruit, lemongrass, honey dew melon, mango, papaya, peaches, pears, pineapple, plums, prunes, raisins, strawberries, and watermelon.
Grains: grains should NEVER be fed under any circumstances, even corn, as it will cause fatal intestinal inflammation and blockages.
Commercial foods: these can be provided daily or left out entirely. If offered they should always be in their own bowl and should be provided fresh daily. There is a large selection of options from dehydrated insects and veggies mixes to moist cubes. Some things to remember are always feed proper size food (half the width of their head), always check ingredients to avoid potentially harmful substances like grains preservatives and other chemicals, always dispose of moist food within 24 hours, and always clean bowls daily that held moist food.

Basic care:

Handling: Bearded Dragons should be scooped up gently and never grabbed. Until they are used to you and you are used to handling them you should hold them close to the ground so that if they jump they won't harm themselves. A hand in front of them or petting them is usually enough to get them to stay where they are. Never grab a lizards tail. Your Bearded Dragon should be handled daily, three periods of 15 minutes each is recommended.
Housing: An adult Bearded Dragon needs a minimum 40 gallon terrarium. Theoretically two equally sized females can be housed together in a 55 gallon or larger; however, at first sign of stress including even a slight size difference they must be separated. Males and male female pairs should not be housed together. A good option for a pair of Bearded Dragons is a divided 55+ gallon tank. The divider should be solid glass or plexiglass and care should be taken to not place climbable decor near the divider.
Soaps and chemicals: Never use anything in a lizard cage that has ever come in contact with any kind of soap or chemical in any way! Even a cup washed with water 20 times after having been washed with dish soap will still transfer potentially toxic soap residue to your lizards water. Never clean their water bowls, decor or terrarium with soap or any other chemical.
Daily maintenance: Every day switch out your Dragon's carpet; take out the dirty carpet, wipe out the bottom if needed and put a clean dry or lightly moistened (to help it to stay flat) carpet in the cage, rinse the soiled carpet with water. If there are dirty spots spray them with distilled white vinegar, let set a few minutes then rinse again. Hang to dry for use the next day. Rinse off any soiled decor, use vinegar and rinse again if needed. Rinse the water bowl well and refill with fresh dechlorinated water. Rinse out any bowls that contained moist food or fresh produce and refill.
Weekly maintenance: remove the Bearded dragon to a temporary holding area clean entire habitat top to bottom including all glass, decor, carpets and bowls with distilled white vinegar and rinse completely. Reassemble refilling all bowls, return Dragon to habitat.

Illness:

In the wild a sick animal is a meal for the next predator that comes along, as a defense against this animals hide any signs of illness until they are so sick they can no longer hide it, for this reason you will often not see signs of illness until it's too late or nearly too late to save them. If you do see signs of illness take your Bearded Dragon to a qualified reptile veterinarian immediately. There are some common things easily mistaken for illnesses and there are specific illnesses to watch for as well as general signs of underlying health problems.

Brumation: A reptile's equivalent of hibernation. Can cause symptoms similar to illness including lethargic behavior, irritability and lack of appetite. A dragon should be at least 2 years old before attempting brumation and special care needs to be taken during this time. Since the behavior is so similar to that of an ill Bearded Dragon first sign of this is a good time for your yearly vet check up at which time a stool sample should be analyzed to make sure your Bearded Dragon is ready for brumation or what steps you can take to prevent it. Your vet can also go over what care is needed during brumation.
Shedding: Reptiles shed their skin as they grow, they will shed at varying frequencies depending on their growth rate, some will shed as often as once a week others as infrequently as once a year. Shedding can also cause decreased appetite, rubbing against furniture and a dulling appearance. Make sure to keep your Dragon well hydrated with extra soaks and misting during this time.
Dehydration: Bearded Dragons get most of their liquid from misting and soaking, if insufficient hydration is provided it can lead to symptoms such as sunken eyes, vigorous lapping at mist, wrinkled skin, decreased energy and decrease appetite. If such symptoms appear increasing soaks and misting is usually sufficient, but if not then it can be a sign of a health problem.
Impaction: An intestinal blockage. Constipation, lethargic behavior, lack of appetite and slow growth can be warning signs. A 15 minute soak in warm water can help minor obstructions but if symptoms continue more than 24 hours after the soak then veterinary care may be needed. This can be prevented by feeding a balanced diet of proper sized food and not using bedding that can be swallowed.
Metabolic Bone Disease: This severe calcium deficiency is often due to not enough UVB, not changing out UVB bulbs often enough, not providing high calcium greens like Kale, giving greens that bind to calcium like spinach or not providing a calcium supplement regularly. Symptoms can include swollen joints, lumps in tail, lethargic behavior, spasms or jerky movement. This is a serious condition that requires veterinary treatment.
Mouth Rot: Mouth rot causes a yellowish/white substance to appear in and around the mouth of your Bearded Dragon. Sometimes your Dragon's mouth can be swollen or appear deformed and their teeth can be loose. Many dragons who suffer from mouth rot have a decreased appetite and eventually death if not treated by a veterinarian.
Other signs of possible illness: These can be simple problems like out of season Brumation or very serious potentially fatal illnesses but should be addressed with a veterinarian visit; Constipation, diarrhea, sunken eyes, swollen eyes, puffy eyes, droopy eyes, lethargy, loss of appetite, continuing dehydration, paralysis, twitches, tremors, signs of parasites, labored breathing, mucus around mouth or nostrils, any swelling, unusual aggressive behavior, unusually smelly feces, limping or any visible signs of injury.